Big smiles in Boca Grande, Florida
In part 2, after being away from motorcycles for 14 months, Phil Buonpastore had a second chance with his beloved Honda Shadow Aero 1100, and it was magical.
The 2014 Indian Chief Vintage
Author: Phil Buonpastore
Parting doesn’t have to be sweet sorrow, or forever
Circumstances prompted Phil Buonpastore to sell his beloved Honda Shadow Aero 1100, but fate had something else in mind. Part one of two.
South Carolina’s coastal plain is a photographer’s dream
Not only is South Carolina the hub for the Myrtle Beach Bike Week, but it is also great for many other rich sights if you know where to look.
Phil Buonpastore
Having an opportunity to ride a 2014 Indian Chief Vintage for several weeks, I pondered where to take the “new Native American” motorcycle. I needed a place that would be appropriate to the bike’s historic marque. Knowing well the history of my long-adopted home state of Georgia, I realized I did not have to look much farther than my own backyard, as the area encompassing north Georgia, western North Carolina, and eastern Tennessee is flush with Native American history. Prior to being forcibly relocated by President Andrew Jackson to Oklahoma in 1830, the Cherokee and Creek Indian tribes called this area home.
The Appalachian Mountains are also home to some of the best motorcycling roads in the country, and I aimed to ride as many of them as possible in a two-day loop tour. The ride into Cherokee country begins from the northern Georgia town of Dahlonega, whose name is taken from the Cherokee word “dalonige,” which means yellow or gold. An old mining town is always an appropriate start to a good road trip. Georgia’s state Road 60 is the most direct route northwest, and it is a well-known rider’s road with an almost continuous series of twisting curves, so I had no hesitation in beginning the route here.
The Vintage is a beautiful bike. Harking back to an earlier motorcycling era, this machine takes its styling cues from the classic Indians of the mid-20th century, with solid red paint and a weathered tan seat and saddlebags. With a 68.1-inch wheelbase, it is a large motorcycle but surprisingly agile and very much at home in the twisties of northern Georgia, and I find myself taking on the challenge of SR 60 with confidence and a spirited pace. The road passes by the well-known motorcycle lodge Two Wheels Suches (formerly Two Wheels Only), recently reopened and renamed after the small north Georgia town it calls home. SR 60 eschews the straight line for 46 miles until reaching the neighboring towns of McCaysville, Georgia, and Copperhill, Tennessee, at the Georgia-Tennessee state line.
Phil Buonpastore
A cruise on the Appalachian roads on the Indian Chief Vintage is just too perfect.
In Tennessee, SR 68 is a real gem. Within a few miles, the road enters the near center of the Cherokee National Forest, offering the stellar visual combination of an emerald green pine forest against a deep-blue sky, with a perfectly paved two-lane highway that offers both long straightaways and sections of repeating organic S-curves that seem to be naturally spaced to allow a perfect rhythm for rocking the Vintage along the route. Scenic locations and interesting sites abound, including the old railroad trestle that runs over TN 68 near the Hiwassee River and the abandoned semi-comical Kimsey Junior College pumping station. As you approach the town of Tellico Plains, two lodging outfits that cater to the two-wheeled traveler are available: Hunt’s Motorcycle Lodge (huntslodge.com) features small cabins and camping for the more spartan two-wheeled traveler, and for the upscale motorcyclist, The Lodge at Tellico (lodgeattellico.com) features premier rooms with whirlpool bathtubs and a motorcycle garage. The Lodge website also has links to area rides and restaurants.
Phil Buonpastore
Lodges can be found throughout the mountains in the southeast.
Phil Buonpastore
Many small towns dot the mountains and all contain tid bits of history.
At the town of Tellico Plains, a right turn off TN 68 takes you onto the Cherohala Skyway, one of the finest motorcycle rides in the entire southeastern US. The name of the road is taken from the two national forests it travels through—the Cherokee and the Nantahala—and is designated a National Scenic Byway. Rising from about 900 feet at the Tellico Plains entrance to the 5,390-foot elevation of Santeetlah and excellently paved throughout, the scenic byway twists and turns its way through national forests and along the top of the Unicoi Mountains for most of its 43-mile length. At the higher elevations, you are riding almost directly over the peaks of the mountain range, with spectacular 100-plus-mile views in almost any direction.
The Skyway ends at Highway 129 near the small town of Robbinsville, North Carolina. As it was approaching sunset, I got a room at the Microtel Inn and walked across the street to buy dinner at a grocery store. Choosing fried chicken and a few side items from the deli counter, I asked the gentleman working behind the counter where they kept their beer. He replied, “We don’t have any beer. We’re a dry county.” Dry county? I didn’t think they made those anymore. I settled for a bottle of Perrier.
Phil Buonpastore
TN 68 promises some of the finest motorcycle rides in southeastern US.
The next morning, it was north on highway 129 toward Deals Gap, a must-do when riding in this area. Don’t get me wrong; the 20 miles from Robbinsville to “The Dragon” is also a fine ride in itself, running adjacent to the Yellow Creek with its beautiful waterside scenery along the way. At Deals Gap, I ride through the famous 318 curves three times: once to get my sea legs, a return ride to take the Gap at a more challenging pace, and a third time to head north again. The Vintage handled the drill with competence and agility, and leaving the bike in third gear put the engine in the sweet spot for rolling on and off the throttle at the perfect speed for the repeating curves’ entries and exits.
I stop at the roadside pullout overlooking Calderwood Dam to unwind from the previous thousand curves, converse with other riders, and take a few photos of the gorgeous Calderwood Lake, the dam, and the surrounding forest before continuing north again.
It’s interesting to observe that in this area of the country there are so many good roads to ride that you can enjoy a half dozen of them in a single day, with just a few miles between to “connect the dots.” From Calderwood Dam, it is 15 miles to the entrance of the Foothills Parkway, which is a nice foil to the previous radical twisting and turning of Deals Gap. Its easy rolling hills and milder curves gives you an opportunity to relax and simply enjoy the vistas that overlook the surrounding Appalachian Mountains.
The parkway exits on Highway 321/73, and going south for a short 8 miles leads to the next leg in the route where Highway 321 splits from Scenic 73. The entire length of the lovely two-lane Scenic 73 runs alongside the twisting Little River for the majority of its 20-mile length. Along this road is the entrance to Cades Cove State Park, a fine place for a stop.
Phil Buonpastore
The scenic roads near the mountains are any motorcycle cruiser’s dream routes.
But don’t enter the park unless you’ve got time on your hands; you’re led through a 20-mile loop road with very low speed limits and lots of tourist traffic. There are no signs along the way telling you that you made the turn, and it can mean an hour-plus detour in the day’s ride. Follow the signs toward Gatlinburg to avoid this.
At the end of Scenic 73, Highway 441 south leads through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and onto Cherokee, North Carolina. A town that trades on its name, Cherokee brings on the shops, museums, and outdoor dramas and historical reenactments that feature Cherokee culture and history. Taking the opportunity to get some great photos of the Indian Chief Vintage in a Native American setting, I also listen to a fine talk on Cherokee history given by Tony Walkingstick and later fuel the bike for the return ride south toward home.
Phil Buonpastore
Learn about some Cherokee culture in Cherokee, North Carolina.
South out of Cherokee, Highway 19 leads to 74, also called the Great Smoky Mountains Expressway, and how can you go wrong with a name like that? The highway becomes a very nice ride through the Nantahala River Valley, the road’s twists echoing the bends of the river. On hot summer days, the area can get crowded with families taking advantage of the many white-water rafting and tubing companies along the Nantahala’s white water, so watch for pedestrians, especially teenagers, and buses pulling trailers of rafts and rafters.
Once on Highway 19 south of Murphy, I cross the Georgia state line, but the fun isn’t over yet. Near Vogel State Park, the highway becomes another great joyride for the last 16 miles leading back to Dahlonega, where the long passing lanes that continue for several miles mean you can take the curves “Can-Am style,” by moving from the outside of one lane to the inside of the other, allowing a faster average speed than other mountain highways.
Google Maps determines the mileage round-trip from Dahlonega, Georgia, is 375 miles and a little more than nine hours of total travel time. The ride can be comfortably done in two days if you don’t dally too long at any location, but when you have an opportunity to visit areas like this with so many roads to ride and sights to see, why hurry? While there are many long stretches of pristine scenic highway throughout eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina, riding here also has the advantage of many towns offering reasonably priced lodging and plenty of restaurants and fuel stations, so it is also a logistically easy place to tour. Taking your time makes a ride in the traditional Native American lands of the Cherokee all the better.
Phil Buonpastore
“Taking your time makes a ride in the traditional Native American lands of the Cherokee all the better.”
Other Roads and Rides:
Junaluska-Wayah Road:
Comprised of two connected forest roads that run from Andrews, North Carolina, to Highway 64 (Murphy Road), this cross-country route runs past Nantahala Lake and through the Cherokee National Forest for 35 miles. The pavement can be a bit rough at times, but the views of Nantahala Lake and sections of spectacular winding road makes this a must-do for those who have the time for some exploring.
State Route 28 from Franklin, North Carolina, to Highway 129 at Deals Gap:
SR 28 runs across three states, from South Carolina through Georgia and into North Carolina, ending within a mile of the Tennessee state line. The road follows several rivers through forest valleys and at elevation in the Smoky Mountains and in sight of the Fontana Lake and Dam areas near Tennessee. No matter where you begin the ride, SR 28 is a winner of a road. But the section between Franklin to its end at the Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort is an uncommonly beautiful 60-mile ride.
SR 167 | Nevada
Some like the all-night party, the clubs, the shows, and the slots, and in Las Vegas, you can do all that 24 hours a day. Whatever happens in Vegas, so they say. But if you have no great attraction to the glitz, glam, or gambling, there is an entire world within an hour’s ride from the Strip that offers a complete and delightful contrast to the man-made attractions. The face of this city changes every decade, but once away from the burning lights, the clock ticks in geologic time. There’s a wondrous world of wide-open country waiting for exploration just outside the city limits.
Away from town, only a few miles in any direction away from the noise, confusion, and hyped artificial excitement, exists a completely calm and starkly beautiful place. The change is so sudden, the two worlds so seemingly unconnected, that you will find it difficult to believe they are less than an hour away from each other.
Leaving Las Vegas via I-515 South leads to Nevada’s State Highway 93, which leads to Boulder City. Once in Boulder City, a left at Lakeshore Road (SR 166) connects to SR 167, also called Northshore Road, which runs almost entirely along the western side of Lake Mead and through the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. But before you begin the day’s ride along the lake, allow a 5-mile detour farther west on Highway 93 to visit Hoover Dam at Nevada’s border with Arizona. Simply put, you have to see this marvel of engineering to believe it and fully comprehend the scale of the massive structure. Photos might give you some sense of the structure, but unless you see it in person and on a bike, you cannot appreciate this phenomenal achievement.
Expect crowds. It is a popular tourist site, and the road during the approximate ride from Boulder City to the dam becomes progressively more crowded as you get closer, slowing to a stop-and-go pace most days during peak summer season. Once there, parking is ample. Just walk over the massive structure and attempt to comprehend the brain and brawn power that went into its construction, the quality of the 1930s architecture and art deco styling, as well as the pure FDR-era history. If you’re not in a hurry, you can take in the museum, where park personnel give tours and presentations that feature the dam’s history. Enjoy a tourist’s lunch at the High Scaler Café on the western side of the dam, which bridges Arizona and Nevada.
Backtracking to Boulder City, a turn north on Lakeshore Road (SR 166) leads to SR 167, but you are already inside the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Both roads run generally north and parallel to the shore and in sight of the lake until exiting the national recreation area near the town of Overton.
A right turn onto Northshore Road marks the beginning of SR 167, and the ride through the entire area is one seemingly made for motorcyclists. First, the scenery is simply stunning. The deep-blue color of Lake Mead is opposite on the color spectrum to the yellow-orange-pink desert moonscape surrounding it. For those used to seeing green trees and forest, it’s difficult not to have your vision continually drawn to it. I know of few other areas in the country where the landscape is so startlingly beautiful as the Southwest. This is one of the most picturesque of them all.
In contrast to the teeming tourists crowding the Hoover Dam, weekday rides along Lake Mead will likely result in two-wheeled solitude, cruising long stretches before seeing a vehicle going the opposite way. The road is exceptionally well paved and has enough hills and curves to make it interesting—but not so severe that you can’t take in long looks at the scenery—within the boundaries of good sense.
From a general traveling standpoint, one of the great things about visiting the Vegas area is the easy accessibility to worthwhile destinations via roads that go out and back to the city in all directions, offering reasonably quick return trips to your hotel room at the end of a riding day. For a shorter ride, State Roads 147 and 564 lead out of the Lake Mead area and back to the city, but you aren’t ready to call it a day yet, are you?
It’s 12 miles from the beginning of Lakeshore Road to Northshore Road and another 46 miles via SR 167 to Nevada’s Valley of Fire State Park. Signs point to SR 169, also called the Valley of Fire Highway. This is the most enjoyable scenic route for the return ride to Vegas. By the time you get back, your retinas will be loaded with visuals not normally seen in nature. Few places seem otherworldly and surreal as the Valley of Fire. The state park features orange-and-red-colored sandstone somehow resembling solidified lava, with eroded arches and bluffs, all in a very organic formations, and a landscape that looks as if it belongs on another planet, except you can breathe the air. It is 11 miles through the Valley of Fire to its western exit, but you will want to take some of the side roads up into the hills since most are paved or solid-packed gravel, and many of the area’s most interesting features can be found with a bit of exploring off the main highway.
As SR 169 continues west, it leads back to I-15 northeast of Vegas, and another 36 miles south on the interstate gets you back to the day’s starting point at I-515. The entire loop from the city’s hot spots is approximately 150 miles, and a leisurely ride beginning in the morning will get you back in time for dinner and a show or a few turns at the roulette wheel if you like to spin your luck. But when the opportunity to ride through a place like Lake Mead National Recreation Area on a road like SR 167 presents itself, maybe it’s a better to leave the chips behind.
Road Notes:
The length of a day in the Pacific Northwest varies by almost seven hours between the summer and winter solstice. At the peak of the Northwest’s summer, daylight lasts until near 10:00 in the evening, whereas in late fall and early spring it’s dark by 6:00. Luckily for those who live in the Seattle area, excellent rides can be found within a half hour from the city and are also accessible from the eastern suburbs—no matter what the season.
SR 203, just east of Seattle, is one of those roads. The approximately 30-mile route is easily accessed from the northern suburbs, via Highway 522 east to Highway 2 and the town of Monroe, with SR 203 just to the east. Those riding from Kirkland and Bellevue can take Interstate 90 east to Highway 18, which leads to SR 202. From the southern suburbs of Renton, Kent, or Auburn, a ride northeast on Highway 18 brings you to SR 202, with its old train on display at the corner (the Northwest Railroad Museum is several blocks south, in Snoqualmie). North SR 202 then becomes SE Snoqualmie-Fall City Road.
In Fall City, you enter your first “roundabout” and eventually exit onto SR 203, a well-paved two-lane country road that shadows the Snoqualmie River for its entire 30-mile length. From Fall City, settle in for a nice ride that features mostly sedate curves, with a few tire-scrubbers just north of town. The constant views of the Wenatchee National Forest and the Cascade Mountains to the west and northwest allow ample opportunity to just relax and enjoy the ride.
After Fall City, small towns along SR 203 such as Duval and Carnation (home of the milk and dairy producer) give day-trippers plenty of options for food and fuel, as well as (yep) a carton of fresh milk. Pete’s Club and Grill in Carnation is the popular motorcycling hangout in the area, and on a nice summer day the parking area in front will be “full-up” with bikes and the open-air backyard packed with riders enjoying a break. A sign on the building reads, “We Sell Kegs to Go.” The balancing act for that one would be worthy of the stage at Cirque du Soleil.
Scenic detours along the way include taking NE Stillwater Hill Road/NE Big Rock Road for a more challenging 7-mile loop that returns to SR 203 south of Duval. Another option is NE Carnation Farm Road, which takes you past (you guessed it) Carnation Farm, where you get “milk from contented cows.” And what cow would not be content in such a bucolic setting? The farm is near the intersection of NE Carnation Farm Road and Ames Lake Carnation Farm Road NE, and the latter of these two roads slings you past, er, Ames Lake. Eventually you’ll loop back to SR 202 and then either west toward Seattle or east to SR 203 at Fall City.
But the jewel in this area is Ben Howard Road at the southern end of Monroe. Ben Howard begins going east off of SR 203 and takes you through spectacular open farmland before following the scenic Skykomish River with its stellar river and mountain views, as well as some of the best twisties of the day. Ben Howard ends at Mann Road, and a left turn here will bring you to Highway 2 at the town of Sultan. At the intersection of Highway 2 and Mann Road, park and take a walk on the bridge over the Skykomish River—it’s a picture postcard. At Highway 2, going west will loop you back to Monroe and SR 203, and going east leads into the Cascade Mountains, which will take you to…forever.
The ride from beginning to end and a loop back to the starting point, as well as the other loops we’ve mentioned, makes for a nice, laid-back three- or four-hour trip. It’s an excellent choice for a beautiful day ride in the Pacific Northwest.
Highway 28, NC
Part of a 238-mile highway that traverses three states, NC 28 begins in Beech Island, South Carolina, and rolls to a halt near Tennessee. It is the only state highway that keeps the same number as it traverses South Carolina, Georgia, and North Carolina.
The road begins its winding northwestern twists at the South Carolina state line, but the area of most interest to riders is the 56-mile stretch from Franklin, North Carolina, to Deals Gap at the Tennessee border. For those pilots coming from Georgia or South Carolina with plans to “slay The Dragon,” this section is a winding and not heavily traveled direct route that’s a good warm-up for what’s ahead. And while it might not be the fastest way to Deals Gap, its almost continuously winding character makes it a route that’s far more appealing to motorcyclists than to car drivers.
Highway 28, NC
The first leg of NC 28 from Franklin to Highway 74 is a 21-mile, two-lane winding road carved through national forest that’s seemingly made just for bike riders (unless of course you’re caught behind a slow-moving vehicle; then it can be a drag, as passing opportunities are limited).
NC 28 joins with Highway 74 for a quick 3-mile jog west before resuming its northwestern route. Here the road continues another 33 miles, tracing the southern edge of Smoky Mountains National Park much of the way and channeling the park’s personality en route. You’ll encounter an almost nonstop series of S-turns and switchbacks framed by the beautifully dense pine forest overhanging the road. Although the serpentine nature of this section might inspire you to take the twisties at a spirited pace, hurrying through here misses some of the best NC 28 has to offer. Settle in at a more leisurely pace and you’ll appreciate both a stellar road and the awe-inspiring surroundings of the Smokies.
Highway 28, NC
The last 10 miles feature some of 28’s best riding, as you wind along the shores of Fontana then Cheoah Lake before crossing the Fontana Dam into Tennessee. As you round the last curve before the dam, you’re pointed directly at an Appalachian Mountain ridge rising a few hundred feet directly in front of you. The view is simply spectacular and rivals areas in the Rocky Mountains for sheer, stark beauty. Once past the dam, NC 28 ends at Highway 129 and Deals Gap, where you’ll probably trade the serenity of the last few miles for a slightly more electric atmosphere. No matter, it’s still a big highlight of your riding day.
Road Notes:
Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort
dealsgap.com